This is my first time surfing and I admit I am a tad nauseous. My mind is buzzing with things that could go wrong. The cord ( what's it called again? Will ask Shaun as soon as I get home.) can snap. There could beautiful crash. And my biggest fear: I might get an itching in my nose.
Five minutes later, I am on the open ocean. On it! And I am having a wonderful time. I am no adrenaline junkie, but there is no denying the pleasure of this. The wind, and faster than that racing of my heart, the cartwheels in my stomach.
Suddenly my worst nightmare gets to see daylight. The driver yells at me. From the muffled screams and the fanatic pointing I gather that the straps are loose and might go. Now I am a physics student and inertial properties are sixth grade stuff. So i decide that i will just take a leap in the air, skid a bit and then crouch. Something like what i had seen in a thousand or so movies.
The boat slows, i jump and fall straight into the ocean. Now i am in it! In.